Seoul’s noise and congestion are living proof of the country’s economic achievements; its calm and grandeur attest to the strength of Korean culture. As you walk around the city you will feel the push to the future and the pull of the past. And you’ll find that the city just grows on you, as do the people.

Many people speak English that one barely has time to pull out the tourist map before someone has stopped at your side, asking (in better or worse English) if they might help. Even people who don’t speak your language will go out of their way, sometimes acting out monologues in sign language or taking you by the hand to where you need to be. And while it never hurts to be careful, polite, and respectful, most Koreans are quite proud of their country and are excited that you’re taking time to explore it. It’s safer traveling here than in many places in the West, and the rewards are considerable.